Cass Scenic Railroad

Bald Knob

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german nce you reach the top you may catch a glimpse through the trees of Cheat River winding its way along its lofty course. There, too, you will travel a portion of that huge area where the rough loggers toiled for fifty-eight years to strip away the timber. From Bald Knob you will gaze out upon a scene so large and beautiful that you will surely feel it could only be created by God, the master craftsman of all.

W. E. Blackhurst / Your Train Ride Through History / 1968

inset_sign egyptian xactly 11 miles up the mountain from the switch in Cass that once connected the logging railroad to the Chesapeake & Ohio mainline, the Bald Knob station represents the end of the Scenic Railroad line and the pinnacle of its passengers' experience. On a clear day, the rustic Bald Knob overlook platform provides remarkable panoramic views to the east. Mountains in the distance turn out to be the Virginia state border, about 11 miles away. Although the town of Cass is hidden from view at this location, the depot sits about 45 degrees to the right of the platform and is about 4 miles away ... and sometimes the whistles of the other Shays can be overheard from up on the knob. One can see the radio telescopes of the Greenbank Radio Observatory in the valley. Although the overlook area is often assumed to be the very top of Bald Knob, it is not the mountain's peak. The overlook is at an elevation of about 4,700 feet, while the actual summit is 4,842 feet and about 1/4 mile to the southwest. A fire tower at the summit was abandoned years ago when the second growth trees became tall enough to obscure its view.

Bald Knob trains pause at this wonderful open viewing area for about 20 minutes before beginning the 11-mile descent back down to Cass. Vistors can also pay to camp overnight on the Knob, staying in a Cass caboose that has been retrofitted for such wonderful purposes.

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Click to see the Bald Knob station area plotted on a Google Maps page

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Cass route map / modified from Carstens map / collection

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collection

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postcard / collection

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from Essential Cass: An Overview of Cass Scenic Railroad State Park
/ collection

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bald7 Bald Knob, the upper terminus of the Cass Scenic Railroad, is a strange, although not uncommon, name to be applied to a peak in the mid-Appalachians. Further south, in the Great Smokies, bald areas on or near mountain tops are common and have attracted the attention of ecologists for more than 100 years. But in the latitude of West Virginia, the original forest covered practically everything except wet, glady areas such as that found in Canaan Valley and Cranberry Glades.

Small wonder that first settlers of Arbovale in 1770 gazed westward to the forbidding summit of Cheat Mountain and applied the name Bald Knob to its highest peak.

On the side of Bald Knob, a short distance from the top, a grassy area of considerable extent glistened in the morning sun. Above it, the dark green of red spruce reached to the horizon and beyond; below it giant hardwoods clung to the steep mountainside. The bald spot seemed to be separating two antagonists struggling for control of the slope. There it stayed, serene and mysterious, through the next 150 years until cut by lumbermen, and fire swept through. The bald slowly became invaded by bracken ferns and by weedy species until today it is scarcely discernible. Yet the name and the enigma of the origin and persistence of the bald remains.

Roy B. Clarkson / "Flower Garden of the East" / from Natural History of the Cass Scenic Railroad - 1967

photo Bald Knob, WV / Jun 2013 / RWH

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Cass track map / adapted RWH

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bald5 By the summer of 2018, I had already known the great privilege of arriving at Bald Knob by gear-driven train some half-dozen times. That is surely more than any man deserves in a lifetime. One arrival found the mountain completely covered in soupy fog; on another we detrained in the rain. All others were what one hopes for on Cheat Mountain: blue skies, sunshine, and tree-tops as far as the eastward eye can see. My only complaint each visit was that there was never enough time to really take in the Knob. Sooner than I always wanted, the call would come for boarding for the long, hand-braked descent back down to Cass village.

Until August of 2018 ... when I experienced on Bald Knob a new and strange and wonderful feeling: watching the train depart ... from the ground. My partner and I had booked the mountaintop caboose for the night, and it did not take long to understand how Cheat Mountain becomes an entirely different place when no one else is there making sounds. We had, as it were, the place to ourselves. Although, that phrase seems to break up under the weight of all that surpassing beauty. There is no human ownership on Bald Knob, especially when most of the humans have departed.

bald20 The gift of waking up on on that mountain, of seeing the morning clouds hang low over the valleys to the east, of watching the sun break up the star-pocked darkness, of feeling the ice-hinted breeze through your camping hair -- the gift is precisely that, up there, you forget yourself entirely. It would be better to say -- not that we had it to ourselves -- but what a blessing it was, being a Guest in that Place. To be sure, I have slept in beds more comfortable than the vinyl cushions of a Virginian steel caboose. But I have not known very many overnights as breathtaking as being stranded in the heavens, almost a dozen rail-miles from real life down below.

And when, like clockwork the next afternoon, the sound of hard-working steam broke through the tree line ... and soon another batch of happy tourists appeared at rail's end, pushed up there again by Mr. Shay's amazing machine, I still could not help but feel that my time there had ended too soon. Not 20 minutes, nor 24 hours, is really enough to inculcate the truths of the serene hospitality of this Appalachian Lady.

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Bald Knob, WV / Aug 2018 / RWH

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Bald Knob, WV / Aug 2018 / RWH

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german fter skirting the head of Big Run just below ridgeline, the final ascent to Bald Knob involves the geared power ascending a 9% grade (built in 1967 as 11% and later reduced). Reaching rail's end you have climbed 2,257 feet in 11 miles to an elevation of 4,702 feet. En route to the highest point reached east of the Rockies by a non-cog railroad, you pass through three different kinds of forests: along the Greenbrier and lower Leatherbark the eastern deciduous; then a band of northern hardwoods; and finally, northern evergreens — slowly maturing third-growth red spruce in the elevations above 4,000 feet. The last few miles to rail's end are aptly called a "piece of Canada gone astray."

Philip V. Bagdon / Essential Cass: An Overview of Cass Scenic Railroad State Park

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Jun 2022 / RWH

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Aug 2018 / RWH

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Aug 2018 / RWH

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Aug 2018 / RWH

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Cheat [Mountain] still stands as before in all its awesome bulk. Civilization has made no inroads into it. It is wilderness now as it was then. The black bear still lumbers through its woods. The wildcat still hunts the snowshoe hare and the big owls still glide on silent wings to and fro. Cheat River still chuckles over the stones and still holds the brightly colored trout. New spruce forests blanket the land and furnish a home for deer, turkeys and other creatures of the wild.

Cheat, rising 4,500 feet and more, is still as one logger said, "a piece of Canada gone astray." The high forest assumes all the characteristics of the far northern woods. Here thrive the spruce, beech, white birch, and other trees of the northland. Down under the trees the forest floor is true Canadian. The mosses, weeds, flowers and shrubs are those of the colder land. Here the visitor can find himself in a new world of nature with a two-hour climb. By that climb he may leave the central hardwood region with its oak, maple, poplar, walnut and other deciduous trees and find himself treading the deep moss floor of the big evergreen northern forest. The change is so complete as to give one the feeling of being in another world.

Warren E. Blackhurst - "Until the Hills" - from Natural History of the Cass Scenic Railroad - 1967

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Aug 2018 / RWH

Aug 2018 / RWH

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This page was updated on 2022-08-09